Large Vision-Language Models (VLMs) have demonstrated impressive performance on complex tasks involving visual input with natural language instructions. However, it remains unclear to what extent capabilities on natural images transfer to Earth observation (EO) data, which are predominantly satellite and aerial images less common in VLM training data. In this work, we propose a comprehensive benchmark to gauge the progress of VLMs toward being useful tools for EO data by assessing their abilities on scene understanding, localization and counting, and change detection tasks. Motivated by real-world applications, our benchmark includes scenarios like urban monitoring, disaster relief, land use, and conservation. We discover that, although state-of-the-art VLMs like GPT-4V possess extensive world knowledge that leads to strong performance on open-ended tasks like location understanding and image captioning, their poor spatial reasoning limits usefulness on object localization and counting tasks. Our benchmark will be made publicly available on Hugging Face.